Benevento, legendary “city of witches”, extends into the valley where the Rivers Sabato and Calore flow together. The city, of ancient origin, was first a Samnite stronghold, then the gateway to Southern Italy and beyond, to the East, for the Romans, the capital of Southern Italy for the Lombards and, finally, a papal fiefdom for almost 800 years until it was annexed into the Kingdom of Italy.
Lined with elegant palaces, Corso Garibaldi is the main thoroughfare in this city of history and mysterious legends. Symbolized by Trajan’s Arch (15m tall) which is decorated with sculptures celebrating the emperor whose name it bears, the city contains other Roman ruins including a Theatre from the 2nd century C.E. used for concerts and performances today.
The Duomo of Santa Maria de Episcopio, built by the Lombards in the 7th century, has kept the facade and bell tower of its original structure. The 8th century Church of Santa Sofia, also of Lombard origin, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011.
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The witches of Benevento
The legend of the Witches of Benevento possibly has Roman origins. It recounted that the witches would meet beneath a large walnut tree near the river Sabato where they would venerate a demon. By night, the witches would sneak into the stables to find a horse, then ride it all night. They would leave traces of their passing, with little braids of hair plaited from the stolen horse’s mane. Still today, farmers tend to leave bags of salt or a broom outside the stable door to distract the witch into counting the grains or the bristles of the brush.